Look Gentle in Berluti CapsuleMen's Corner14 June 2019
By Nadia Nelly Irwan
Belgian fashion designer Kris Van Assche sets the template for a new-look Berluti as he unveiled his hot-on-the-heels spring/summer 2019 capsule collection.
The collection serves as a prelude to his first runway presentation in January 2019. With somewhat less fanfare, the idea sets to establish essentials for the contemporary Berluti man apparel. Defining sartorial-toned silhouettes and volumes of the reinvented Berluti, black canvases are determined for future development through tailoring: the two-button suit jacket, the white poplin shirt and the tuxedo, in monochrome. Spanning over other spectrum of menswear, the nascent notion of core men garment basics includes bomber jacket, letter jacket, as well as track top and bottom. Reinvented Berluti silhouettes are portrayed through the mix of tailoring and sportswear.
Examining the heritage of the Parisian brand Berluti, artistic director Kris Van Assche identifies the trademarks of the maison and reinterprets them for a new intergenerational era. The timeless Berluti’s signature footwear ‘Alessandro’ oxford is now available in thicker leather sole, while the archival ‘Andy’ loafer–named after Warho–is modernized to creeper soles. The ‘Scritto’, an eighteenth-century manuscript motif intrinsic to Berluti, features in graphic prints such as multicolored patterns and tone-on-tone jacquard accents on casual attires and bags, carving the maison’s history of new beginnings. In the meantime, its classic patina signature is developed in a dual blue and red colorway, as echoed in bags.
Van Assche’s capsule collection is a nod to the forthcoming exploration, when the new ‘Berluti 1895 Paris’ signature is deployed in June. Drawing the line between sleek, androgynous stylem it is emblazoned on a jacket, sweatshirt, and t-shirt. The properties of leather accessories that invented Berluti’s background morph into apparel: pitch black leathered cap, black leather suit, and a red leather hoodie. The color schemes of this collection–black, white, green, red and blue–reflect the notion of new classics.
PHOTOS Courtesy of Berluti